Xieng Khouang was the capital of Xieng Khouang Province in Laos. This city was almost completely destroyed in the 1970s during the battles between the Pathet Lao and the U.S.-backed anti-communist forces. After its destruction, a new town was built about fifteen kilometers northwest: Phonsavan.

Nowadays, new houses have been built on the site of Xieng Khouang, under the name of Muang Khoun and bear no comparison to the buildings that existed previously. Only four remnants of the old city remain: the ruins of a Buddhist temple, Vat Phia Vat, the ruins of the old French hospital, two stupas, That Foun (in Lanna style), and That Chom Phet (in Cham style).

Let’s look at Vat Phia Vat or Wat Phiawat. Built between 1564 and 1582, it was destroyed by an aerial bombing in 1966. Only the pillars and the stone Buddha statue remain. This statue is venerated by pilgrims who come every day to pray, make offerings, and add small Buddhas. This temple stands out among many temples in Laos due to its remarkable Buddha statue, a masterpiece of intricate craftsmanship and profound spiritual significance.
This monumental 14th-century Buddha is seated on a brick pedestal, covered with some parts still visible of the original plaster. Flanked on each side by the last two brick columns, the Buddha sits in the bumisparshamudra, or the earth-touching posture, with his long elegant fingers reaching the ground.

The Buddha’s head is remarkable for its elongated earlobes, slightly curved suggesting a royal lineage, and its sharply defined features.

His right eye is severely damaged, creating a striking contrast with the relatively intact left eye. Tight strands of hair are depicted as series of cylindrical tips. While most of his hair remains intact, there is a large ’bald’ area at the back, where the tips have been destroyed.

Weeds are growing from a missing part of the Buddha’s forehead. The left arm was severely damaged by the American bomb that fell near the pagoda.

The red brick tile floor is very recent, giving a noble and respectful appearance to this beautiful large Buddha draped in a golden-colored fabric.

But what was this Buddha like in 1900? Cartacaro searched ... photograph, postcard ...

To be continued